7,439 m
Elevation
4,148 m
Prominence
42.0342°, 80.1250°
Coordinates
1956 — Vitaly Abalakov (Soviet expedition)
First Ascent
About Jengish Chokusu
Also called Peak Pobedy ('Victory Peak'). The northernmost 7,000m+ peak on Earth, notorious for brutal weather. On the China-Kyrgyzstan border.
Climbing Jengish Chokusu: route, season and difficulty
- How long it takes
- a full expedition of one to several weeks, including acclimatisation
- Do you need a guide?
- Yes. This is expedition terrain — a guided team or a very experienced, self-sufficient partnership is essential, and permits or logistics support are usually mandatory.
- Best season
- Usually May to October (July–September for the high routes).
- Terrain & gear
- Glaciated, remote and high-altitude terrain with objective hazards. Full expedition kit: rope, crampons, ice axe, harness, high-altitude clothing, tents and fuel.
Note: Very high altitude, glaciated, remote
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the highest mountain in Kyrgyzstan?
The highest mountain in Kyrgyzstan is Jengish Chokusu, at 7,439 meters above sea level.
How long does it take to climb Jengish Chokusu?
Allow a full expedition of one to several weeks, including acclimatisation. Times vary with fitness, conditions and which trailhead you start from.
Can you climb Jengish Chokusu without a guide?
Yes. This is expedition terrain — a guided team or a very experienced, self-sufficient partnership is essential, and permits or logistics support are usually mandatory.
When is the best time to climb Jengish Chokusu?
The usual season is May to October (July–September for the high routes). Outside that window expect snow, storms or closed access.
What gear do you need for Jengish Chokusu?
Full expedition kit: rope, crampons, ice axe, harness, high-altitude clothing, tents and fuel.
How high is Jengish Chokusu?
Jengish Chokusu stands at 7,439 meters (24,406 feet).
Where is Jengish Chokusu located?
Jengish Chokusu is located in Kyrgyzstan, within the Tien Shan (Kakshaal Too).
Has Martin climbed Jengish Chokusu?
Not yet — Jengish Chokusu is still on Martin's list of remaining country highpoints.