7,010 m
Elevation
2,467 m
Prominence
42.2133°, 80.1761°
Coordinates
1931 — Mikhail Pogrebetsky (Ukrainian expedition)
First Ascent
About Khan Tengri
The world's most northerly 7,000m peak. Its perfect marble pyramid glows pink at sunset. The name means 'Lord of the Spirits' in Turkic.
Climbing Khan Tengri: route, season and difficulty
- How long it takes
- a full expedition of one to several weeks, including acclimatisation
- Do you need a guide?
- Yes. This is expedition terrain — a guided team or a very experienced, self-sufficient partnership is essential, and permits or logistics support are usually mandatory.
- Best season
- Usually May to October (July–September for the high routes).
- Terrain & gear
- Glaciated, remote and high-altitude terrain with objective hazards. Full expedition kit: rope, crampons, ice axe, harness, high-altitude clothing, tents and fuel.
Note: High altitude, technical climbing, exposed
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the highest mountain in Kazakhstan?
The highest mountain in Kazakhstan is Khan Tengri, at 7,010 meters above sea level.
How long does it take to climb Khan Tengri?
Allow a full expedition of one to several weeks, including acclimatisation. Times vary with fitness, conditions and which trailhead you start from.
Can you climb Khan Tengri without a guide?
Yes. This is expedition terrain — a guided team or a very experienced, self-sufficient partnership is essential, and permits or logistics support are usually mandatory.
When is the best time to climb Khan Tengri?
The usual season is May to October (July–September for the high routes). Outside that window expect snow, storms or closed access.
What gear do you need for Khan Tengri?
Full expedition kit: rope, crampons, ice axe, harness, high-altitude clothing, tents and fuel.
How high is Khan Tengri?
Khan Tengri stands at 7,010 meters (22,999 feet).
Where is Khan Tengri located?
Khan Tengri is located in Kazakhstan, within the Tien Shan.
Has Martin climbed Khan Tengri?
Not yet — Khan Tengri is still on Martin's list of remaining country highpoints.