4,634 m
Elevation
2,165 m
Prominence
Coordinates
1855 — Charles Hudson, John Birkbeck, Christopher & James Smyth, Ulrich Lauener et al.
First Ascent
About Monte Rosa (Dufourspitze)
The highest mountain in Switzerland is Dufourspitze, the 4,634 m main summit of the Monte Rosa massif in the Pennine Alps above Zermatt — also the second highest mountain in the Alps after Mont Blanc. It is a serious glacier mountaineering objective rather than a hike: the standard line from the Monte Rosa Hut crosses the Gorner and Grenz glaciers before a rocky summit ridge graded around AD, with roughly 1,800 m of ascent on summit day.
The highest peak in Switzerland and second-highest in the Alps. The massive Monte Rosa massif holds the largest glacial face in the Alps. Also climbed Allalinhorn (4,027 m) in 2023.
Also known as: Dufourspitze, Monte Rosa, Punta Dufour, Pointe Dufour, Monte Rosa massif.
Climbing Monte Rosa (Dufourspitze): route, season and difficulty
- How long it takes
- 2–3 days including an approach and a hut or bivouac
- Do you need a guide?
- Strongly recommended unless you are an experienced alpinist. Glacier travel, altitude or remoteness make an unguided attempt serious.
- Best season
- Usually May to October (July–September for the high routes).
- Terrain & gear
- Glacier, snow or sustained technical rock at altitude. Crampons, ice axe, harness, rope and glacier-rescue gear plus warm layers and a helmet.
Note: High altitude, glaciated, technical sections
Climbing Dufourspitze from Zermatt
Almost everyone starts in Zermatt, takes the Gornergrat railway to Rotenboden and drops onto the Gorner Glacier for the walk in to the Monte Rosa Hut (2,883 m). Summit day begins around 02:00: up the Monte Rosa Glacier, over the Sattel, then along the rocky Grenzgipfel ridge to the top. It is a 10-14 hour round trip from the hut, and parties that leave late routinely turn back as the snow bridges soften.
| Elevation | 4,634 m (15,203 ft) — highest point in Switzerland |
|---|---|
| Prominence | 2,165 m |
| Range | Pennine Alps, Monte Rosa massif |
| Standard route | Monte Rosa Hut, west ridge / Grenzgipfel, around AD |
| Base | Zermatt, Valais |
| Season | Mid-June to mid-September |
The highest mountains in Switzerland after Dufourspitze
- ▸Dufourspitze (Monte Rosa) — 4,634 m, the country highpoint.
- ▸Nordend — 4,609 m, the northern summit of the same Monte Rosa massif.
- ▸Zumsteinspitze — 4,563 m, on the Swiss-Italian frontier ridge.
- ▸Signalkuppe (Punta Gnifetti) — 4,554 m, home to the Margherita Hut, the highest building in Europe.
- ▸Dom — 4,545 m, the highest summit entirely inside Switzerland.
- ▸Matterhorn — 4,478 m, the most photographed but not the highest.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the highest mountain in Switzerland?
The highest mountain in Switzerland is Monte Rosa (Dufourspitze), at 4,634 meters above sea level.
How long does it take to climb Monte Rosa (Dufourspitze)?
Allow 2–3 days including an approach and a hut or bivouac. Times vary with fitness, conditions and which trailhead you start from.
Can you climb Monte Rosa (Dufourspitze) without a guide?
Strongly recommended unless you are an experienced alpinist. Glacier travel, altitude or remoteness make an unguided attempt serious.
When is the best time to climb Monte Rosa (Dufourspitze)?
The usual season is May to October (July–September for the high routes). Outside that window expect snow, storms or closed access.
What gear do you need for Monte Rosa (Dufourspitze)?
Crampons, ice axe, harness, rope and glacier-rescue gear plus warm layers and a helmet.
How high is Monte Rosa (Dufourspitze)?
Monte Rosa (Dufourspitze) stands at 4,634 meters (15,203 feet).
Where is Monte Rosa (Dufourspitze) located?
Monte Rosa (Dufourspitze) is located in Switzerland, within the Pennine Alps.
Has Martin climbed Monte Rosa (Dufourspitze)?
Not yet — Monte Rosa (Dufourspitze) is still on Martin's list of remaining country highpoints.
What is the highest mountain in Switzerland?
Dufourspitze, the main summit of Monte Rosa, at 4,634 m (15,203 ft). It sits on the Swiss-Italian border in the Pennine Alps and is the second highest summit in the Alps.
Is the Matterhorn the highest mountain in Switzerland?
No. The Matterhorn is 4,478 m — famous, but 156 m lower than Dufourspitze. Switzerland's highest point is the Monte Rosa massif's Dufourspitze at 4,634 m.
How hard is Dufourspitze to climb?
It is a full alpine route, roughly AD with rock up to grade II-III on the summit ridge, on glaciated terrain. Rope, crampons, ice axe and glacier travel experience are required, and most parties either hire a guide or have prior 4,000 m experience.
What is the easiest 4,000 m peak near Zermatt?
The Breithorn (4,164 m) is the usual first 4,000er — a short glacier walk from the Klein Matterhorn lift. The Allalinhorn (4,027 m) above Saas-Fee is the other classic beginner summit.
Nearby highpoints of similar height
Highpointing lists to explore
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